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JoeVanCleave
06-16-2008, 10:42 PM
Several weeks ago I did some calibration tests of the Efke direct positive paper, sold by Freestyle. And you've seen, in this same forum, images made with my foamcore 5" x 7" format binocular lens camera. Well, I've attempted to combine these two into a self-portrait, which I've called 'Efkeroids' (they're not instant processing, but they are direct positive - maybe if I get a handle on processing these remotely, I can do seated portraits of folks in public.)

It was late in the day this evening; indirect, shaded light in my courtyard, on the east side of the house, opposite the sunsest. I preflashed the paper, according to my calibration tests, for 25 seconds (as a comparison, my normal preflash time for paper negatives is around 10 seconds.) The binocular lens was stopped down to F/8, to cut down on the exposure time to around 1-2 seconds, and also to increase depth of focus a bit; nonetheless, I've managed to focus too far, my ear being almost at the right focal plane. The camera was set so my arm could reach the lens cap shutter; very little depth of field at this short of a subject distance. And the light was fading, so between runs to the darkroom to process the positives, the exposures needed to get longer and longer - this image is still a bit under-exposed. And the ortho tonal range makes skin tones darker than normal. I see pancake makeup in my future. Not a great portrait, but you get the general idea. Best of all, the enchilada stain on my tee-shirt is out of the field of view.:)

2 second exposure. Attached files http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid001a_7999.jpg (http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid001a_7999.jpg)

JoeVanCleave
06-17-2008, 07:58 PM
Okay, so my foam core, binocular lens camera is a "work in progress", as they say. I spent some time today making some improvements. First, I needed an aperture about F/16, to slow down the shaded daylight exposure times to managable times for a hand-operating shutter. I made the F/16 aperture (3/8" diameter) out of stiff, black paper; made a cardboard holder on top of the camera to hold all the aperture discs in place; made a cardboard holder on the inside of the camera, by the lens, to hold the apertures and permit easy install and removal; stiffened up the removable view screen assembly and added some clips on the back edges of the tail board to function as adjustable focus stops for the telescoping box; made a focusing target out of black and white cardboard, with 12 foot string and two hook-eyes on the front edge of the tailboard, to serve as an adjustable length focus aid.

The foamcore film holder, rather than using loops of masking tape to hold the negative in place, now has corner mounts, made from stiff black card stock. I like the look it gives, kind of 19th century wet-plate looking. And it should make for more accurate focus at the film plane.

These two exposures were made, using the Efke direct positive paper, after these upgrades to the camera. First image: preflash 30 seconds, exposure ~ 2 seconds. Second image: preflash 30 seconds, exposure ~ 1.5 seconds. The light was metered at ISO=2 @ EV 8.5 for reference. The amount of preflashing is critical, as it sets the shadow density; whereas the in-camera exposure affects more the highlight intensity.

And, I put on a better shirt. And wiped the perspiration off my face. And no pancake makeup (yet.) :)

~Joe Attached files http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid002a_8088.jpg (http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid002a_8088.jpg) http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid003a_8364.jpg (http://f295.f295.org/uploads/efkeroid003a_8364.jpg)

Longbow3
06-18-2008, 06:33 PM
NIce work Joe! I've also thought of in the field processing. I original thoughts were to build a camera with multiple sheets of film and a drop slot in the bottom. The sheets could be held out of the way with a light tight internal compartment that would be accessible through a light tight sleeve from a changing bag. After the shot the positive could be dropped though the bottom slot into a light tight lower compartment into a developer/fixer bath. Once developed by time then the photo could be retrieved and washed outside the camera body. Very complicated and would probably be very awkward to use. Just a thought. Well in my case, a whole two or three days of thoughts

Wiesmier
09-20-2008, 01:10 AM
Nice idea.. I've seen this sort of set up in Havana which the street photogs use. They seem to have two/three trays of chems in trys at the bottom of the mcara [as well as paper in there somewhere] and develop by inspection though a red filter spy-hole in the top. Great skills.!

NIce work Joe! I've also thought of in the field processing. I original thoughts were to build a camera with multiple sheets of film and a drop slot in the bottom. The sheets could be held out of the way with a light tight internal compartment that would be accessible through a light tight sleeve from a changing bag. After the shot the positive could be dropped though the bottom slot into a light tight lower compartment into a developer/fixer bath. Once developed by time then the photo could be retrieved and washed outside the camera body. Very complicated and would probably be very awkward to use. Just a thought. Well in my case, a whole two or three days of thoughts