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Thread: Other cyanotypes experiment

  1. #1

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    Ani ruins
    (i sue tmax100 film for negative, the exposure for cyabo it was very long about 120 min with philips uv bronze lamp and it's underexpose. Usually with infilm inkjet print it's about 15/20 min)


    :: Ani ruins :: by Mauro.prandelli, on Flickr

    Tiblisi street
    (i use paper size for gum, when i whiten in muriatic acid i have a lot of bubble. When it dry become normal. )


    :: Georgian street :: by Mauro.prandelli, on Flickr

    Try a photogram
    (The same paper of the above but the bubble permain after dry)


    ciano018 by Mauro.prandelli, on Flickr

    Balcony in Tblisi[
    (White canvans with good scale of tone)


    ciano023 by Mauro.prandelli, on Flickr

    Truck on turkey street
    (little bleach and wash in peroxide, after wash with coth soap)


    :: Truck :: by Mauro.prandelli, on Flickr

    Here complete set

    Sorry if i boring you but i like to know what you think about this tes, all critics are welcome.
    Thanks, bye.

  2. #2
    500+ Posts earlj's Avatar
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    Other cyanotypes experiment

    Mauro:

    Tmax 100 film has a uv blocking ingredient in the emulsion. It does not work well for direct exposure of alt process prints. Better to scan the negative and print an inkjet negative for your tmax images. . . .

  3. #3

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    Nothing boring here, on the contrary, I find your findings quite interesting. I especially like the balcony and truck. Both are well seen photos and the cyanotype treatment suits them well.

  4. #4

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    Hi, sorry if i reply only now, i have some problem before.
    Thanks for your appreciation and thanks for your advice.

    X earlj : Thanks a lot for this information because i'm going mad printing the 4x5 Kodak T-max. I use only this picture for my box camera, i'll try with an other fil like Foma.

    Thanks
    Mauro

  5. #5

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    To clear my cyanotypes I use salt water, which turns the yellow to white. TMax is excellent film for some thing, but I agree that considering a digital negative is the way to go, if only for the consistency. That said, you will have troubles if you try to make a negative directly, as the paper's response is not going to be close to what you see on the monitor. I wrote a paper that describes the process of taking an image and making it a digital negative, which can be found at HandMade Photographic Images http://glsmyth.com/MiscArticles/MiscArticles.htm. I "over-explained" things, which is why the document is as long as it is, but that is because I wanted to allow anyone with even a very simple knowledge of Photoshop to be able to do this. It is something that takes quite a bit of time, but once you have the time, color, and curve for the paper (or process) of your choice, you are good to go with all subsequent prints.

    The last two really work for me, the balcony because of its clarity and the truck because of its color.

    Cheers -

    george

  6. #6

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    Thanks GLSmyth, i read your paper about negative and seem like intresting and and i find very good work on your site.
    when i have some time i'll try your method.

    bye
    Mauro

  7. #7

    Other cyanotypes experiment

    I love the balcony image. The other images are interesting and good, but the balcony image really has the extra story to it for me.

    I haven't tried salt water to clear my cyanotypes. My process is an initial citric acid bath, then plain tap water. I'll have to experiment with salt water, though I've only have a couple of early prints with the yellow, and that was with the "new" process. I've been using the traditional process lately and have had not problem with clearing the yellow. For me it's more of a question of making sure I'm patient. I've also washed prints too much in the past, and lost some detail and sharpness. Something new to try anyhow...

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