Some 4x10" pano

[Ned.Lewis]

Jimmy you could try a pre-soak if you aren't doing that already, and maybe a little more gentle agitation right at the beginning of development. ( I don't think that looks like bromide drag, but if it is then a little more agitation throughout the entire development?? )

I was just thinking of you today! I went out with my foamcore camera and was thinking about x-ray film. Is it possible to develop a lot of contrast? I'm aiming at salt prints and some homemade Printing-out paper...

[Isis]

Very interesting set. I too like the graphic elements in No. 1. Nos. 2 & 3 look like they are printed on handmade tissue, don't tell it's development problems. The last one looks like it is raining with the sun out. I have a friend who uses a lot of x-ray film and he made some film hangers out window screen molding and made a small thin tank to dip process his large x-ray negs. Again great set. Jim

Like to see a photo of the hanger, i tried with plastic but to flimsy.

[Isis]

I haven't yet worked with x-ray film but had noticed similar mottling problems with Arista APHS ortho litho film if processed in too exhausted and/or diluted chemistry. That problem, plus APHS propensity for pinholes, spurred on my interest in paper negatives. I might have to try x-ray film. Any suggestions on what brand/kind to start with?

~Joe

Its all much the same Joe, get green sensitive type. I develop in MQ or Dektol double diluted from normal use. Put a piece of glass in bottom of tray to help reduce scratches.

[earlj]

My APHS film looks like this when I do not soak the film in water before it hits the developer. I also try to put the sheet into the water all at once, in one quick motion. 3 minutes, and then into the developer tray. Then the same water bath is used after development, in place of a stop bath. I use this procedure for all films.

[Jimmy G]

Thanks for all the info. I'll try the pre-soak and if needs be up the conc. of the developer.
I'll let you guys know the results.
Joe - I've been using fuji hr-t in 8x10 sheets. I bought it for 25 dollars US for 100 sheet boxes (I have 3 boxes). So far I've been developing at 1:100 for 6 mins.
Ned - yes, by nature this stuff is contrasty. I have a feeling when I use the rodinal and pre-soak I'll get good results. Gonna load some film now..

[Jimmy G]

Okay so I added a 5 min pre-soak to my process, cracked open some fresh R09 and used the same 1:100 conc. and 6 mins developing time and the results are much better...maybe 98% of the way there.. the only agitation I did was the natural agitation caused by turning over the sheet every 30s during devleopment. Thanks for all the help and advice folks! I pretty happy with this camera now!
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[Ned.Lewis]

The only uneven development I see is in the sky, especially above the house in the second picture. Notice how it seems to be related to where the dark areas are, going around the chimney? I get those sometimes on my paper negatives, even with pre-soak, and I don't know why they happen or what to do about it.

Like Earl mentions, having it hit the pre-soak water all at once helps with the other kind of uneven development, but I've never discovered how to get beyond your "98% there" to eliminate this kind. I too have noticed that they seem to happen less with higher concentration of developer, but that leads to other dangers: if the higher concentration developer splatters at all when you put the film into it, it can leave little droplet marks.

I think that gentle agitation at the beginning of development helps with these, but I'm not sure about that because I still see them occasionally!

All this development aside, I think your camera is wonderful!

[Jim.Steel]

Great set of images Jimmy. Much improved. I agree with Ned that is a good photo maker you have there. I recently converted a 6x9 folder and I don't like the perspective. Too wide and distorted. I think you have hit the sweet spot of projection distance with this camera. Jim

[MartinS]

I like the whole series, but my real favourites are #1, 2 and 3. Cool landscape.