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Thread: on the verge camera build

  1. #11
    Barry,a photographer I worked with for quite a while had a reading prescription bifocal made on his normal glasses and after some time using them,he had the same prescription placed at the upper part of his lens as he constantly had a stiff neck from tilting his head back to use the bifocal in it's normal position on his glasses lenses.Don't know if it would cause you the same problem but just thought I'd toss it out in case it might be of help.

  2. #12
    Think I'm going to go with 11"x 14"for the film size.This will allow tilting the front and back using the larger lens and will cost less for materials as well. Thinking of a sliding box design with a tilting lens board and film back.The first part of the build is going to be a film holder then ground glass holder,will size everything off those.
    Am still open to suggestions as no material has been cut as yet...

  3. #13
    After finally deciding on 11X14 size,I started looking for a film holder and found one on e-bay for over $200,needless to say my being frugal(read cheap)I'm setting out and making my own. Almost have one side cut out and am getting ready to glue it,then doing the same to the reverse side resulting in a"normal" two sided film holder.Once this is complete the ground glass holder will follow and the overall size of the boxes will be established so the actual camera build will begin.

  4. #14
    It's taken a while but finally got back to the camera build. I've gotten far enough along with the film holder to establish back size which will be 17 3/4" square.
    Now to begin the camera. Plan on finishing the holder and camera together(no sense dabbing stain and varnish all over twice!).So now to practice my finger(or box) joints and get on with it...Wish me luck!
    Don



  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Apr 2014
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    N-E Victoria, Australia
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    Looking good, Don, I don't think you'll have any problems with the woodwork. What material are you using for the septum and dark slides? Keep posting, this is an interesting project. Thanks,

    Barry

  6. #16
    Thanks Barry,
    Since this is sort of a research project I'm trying to use materials at hand.The septum is 1/8" tempered Masonite with a strip of aluminum flashing for thickness of the film,a hold down which is made of Formica strips as well as dark slide channels and topped off with"C" shaped white pine. So the stack is Masonite,aluminum flashing and three strips of Formica,covered with a white pine channel.I purchased ABS plastic for dark slides as well as black Foamcore for the sliding boxes.Unfortunately the ABS is textured on one side which had to be sanded down to allow it to slide freely. I'm planning to build the box supports,front and back of the white pine.Also the bottom rail which will have a rack and pinion gear arrangement for sizing and focusing.Just finished some"honey do" home projects so am hoping to forge ahead with the camera.
    Don

  7. #17
    Got a little more work done the last few days.Waiting for glue to dry on the front and back as well as support sections for the foam core ,am hoping to cut foam and test fit it all together tomorrow or Monday. will take pictures.
    Don

  8. #18
    It's beginning to resemble a camera at last.Got the supports and Foamcore "bellows" assembled for a test fit and to see if it had a chance of meeting the specifications I'd thought up. Pretty happy with it so far(got a way to go before any film gets exposed,LOL!).
    Here are some pics:



    Intend to have a tilt lens board and tilt back,both with "bag" type bellows as next parts to build.
    Don

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    N-E Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    155
    Looking good, Don. Do you use an ordinary dovetail jig for the finger joints?

  10. #20
    Thanks Barry. No dovetail jig,as they say in the Ozarks"Pore people got pore ways"(bad spelling but hillbilly I guess LOL!).Not having the proper tools often leads to makeshift equipment ,in this case I sandwiched two saw blades for the kerf and cobbled up a jig from scrap wood built to slide in the miter gauge groves on the saw table.Not the best looking job but serviceable I think. I've not made finger joints before and am surprised at the strength they exhibit.
    I'm getting side tracked again but hope to return to the build soonest.
    Don

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